It's Fireplace Weather: Terms To Know

Now that summer is officially over and we have begun our journey into autumn, it is feeling a little like fireplace weather. And over my decade of working in interior design, I have noticed that often people might speak about their fireplaces but don't know what to call parts or areas, while others use different terms for the same object. So in an effort to offer some clarity, let's walk through some of the major parts of a fireplace.

The central and most important part of a fireplace is of course where the fire itself is located, the firebox. This is sometimes referred to simply as "the box." Fireplace boxes can be lined with brick, fireclay, metal, pretty much anything that is fireproof (obviously).

The next area of importance is the hearth. This is the area in front of the firebox and it too needs to be fireproof if you have a live fire. This ensures that popping embers from the firebox will not start a fire. For this reason, a hearth needs to be at least 18" deep. If you have a gas insert instead of actual burning logs, the hearth should still be made of a heat-resistant material since many of today's gas inserts give off a tremendous amount of heat that can still cause damage.

A hearth can be flush with the floor or as close to that as possible. Or a hearth can be raised. In the case of a raised hearth, the structure can turn into a bench!

Now we come to the fun parts of the fireplace: the fascia of the mantel can be clad in a myriad of stone or tile choices (again, any non-combustible material that covers at least 6" from the edge of the firebox), and of course the mantel shelf (people often refer to this simply as "the mantel") can be wood or metal. The shelf is a perfect spot for collectibles, art, and holiday decorations. See my previous post about Mantel Inspiration for a brief overview of what can be done to incorporate rich design into your fireplace.

If you don't have a mantel, you can add a floating shelf which offers a very sleek take on a standard fireplace.

On very traditional fireplaces, the mantel sides can also feature carved or fluted panels which are referred to as legs or pilasters. And the last large piece of a fireplace is what is called the breast. This is the structure that covers the chimney and flue. This is another perfect area for some extra embellishmnet. Traditional fireplaces might feature a material on the fireplace breast that is the wall material in the rest of the room. But modern fireplaces can be clad in tile or stone, often all the way to the ceiling.

But wait, there are some areas of your fireplace that you can't see! The chimney is the structure that rises from the fireplace itself and the flue is the duct, pipe, or opening that allows smoke to rise up and out of your home. If you have a gas insert, the flue can be directed either up or off the side to vent outward but if you have a log-burning fireplace, smoke only rises, so it is imperative that your flue go straight up. You most likely also have a flue cover that allows air to flow up when opened. Because burning natural materials coats the inside of your flue with creosote (a tarry by-product of burning wood), it's good to have a professional chimney sweep clean your fireplace at the beginning of every cold season.

Happy designing!

Tile Terms: What You Need To Know

Interior design is chock full of related specialties and sub-sets of specialties with their own world of nomenclature. Tilers are no exception and if you have ever talked to a tiler, you may have heard some unfamiliar words or terms.

When you pick a tile to go on a shower wall or kitchen floor for instance, the work is not over!

Before any tile ever goes down, a tiler must think about the area and what will be done there. Every application needs some sort of surface or substrate under the tile. This is called a sub-floor and in fact is not only used for tile but for any floor at all. Hard wood, laminate, and carpet all need to go on top of a sub-floor which is often made of plywood.

But special attention needs to be paid to wet areas like showers and tubs which need to protect against moisture and possible mold from the water that will be on and around the tile. This is usually in the form of what is often called backer board, a material that looks like sheet rock but is actually made from cement. Brand names include HardieBacker and DuRock by USG.

In showers, the next layer is often a waterproof membrane to further protect against moisture. A bed of mortar needs to be laid before any tile can be applied. This mortar is also called thinset and goes on top of either the waterproof membrane or onto the cement board. This is the glue that holds the tiles in place.

Now tile is ready to go down and another consideration at this point is how far apart the tiles can or should be. The space between the tiles is what will be the grout line. I personally like the smallest possible grout line--the point after all is the tile, not the grout!--so that means spacing the tiles as close as they can get. Tile spacers come in different shapes and sizes which allow for different grout lines. The most common tile spacer looks like a little plastic plus sign.

Here is a tile installation in a shower, showing spacers at the corners of the tiles, keeping them equidistant.

Part of the tile selection and plan should have been whether or not the edges of your tiled surfaces will have a rounded edge tile, called a bull nose tile, or if it will have some other kind of decorative edge detail.

Many tiles come in an edge style as well. This allows a nice finished look instead of seeing the ragged edge of a tile. You can see below how the rounded detail accomplishes this.

Bullnose tiles are quite traditional so if you are looking for something sleeker and more contemporary, you can use a Schluter edge which is a long strip of plastic or metal that sits partially beneath the tiles along the edge. The detail that is seen can be a color, or it can be a finish such as brushed nickel, oil-rubbed bronze, or even copper.

Here is an image of a Schluter strip being installed in a bathroom I recently completed for a client. This chrome edge caps off not only the filed tile in the shower but the decorative band that runs across the walls. It is a very convenient and clean way to finish off different kinds of materials at once.

We used this chrome edge not only in the shower but as a way to cap the same mosaic decorative band we used as a back splash at the sink. The entire project can be seen here in a previous post.

Once all the tile is set and the mortar has dried (it's usually best to wait at least 24 hours), the grouting process begins. This involves troweling on a paste that gets in between the tiles, sealing off the thinset and any access to the sub-materials that could cause mold or mildew. Grout comes in many different colors and can be coordinated with the tile so it does not stand out, or it can be used as a contrast. Choose carefully as this can be a make-or-break element.

Grout color can blend with the tile colors, giving a soothing appearance, like this luxury bathroom I designed for a client (previously here)...

...or it can make a tile choice stand out like this dramatic black grout on a traditional white subway tile.

I hope this helped to demystify tile, tiling, and tiling terms.

Happy designing!

When It's NOT A Four Poster Bed

You don't need to have four posters to have a beautiful fabric treatment over your bed. You can get a canopy look without having the posts to hold it up simply by installing rods and draping fabric. This awning-style canopy is easy to achieve by using metal drapery rods, wooden dowels, or even tree branches!

And then there is a style of bed cover based upon the idea of a four poster bed, particularly the large flat panel known as a "tester" (TEE-stir) suspended from the four posts. A half-tester bed is one that only has a short panel above the head of the bed from which falls fabric panels, as seen below. While the look originated centuries ago in Europe, the style today looks elegant and luxurious. The tester can have a valance of some kind, in a shape, even upholstered in fabric.

But when the tester is small or non-existent, and fabric falls from a central point, this is known as a crown. The examples below are rectangular but crowns come in demilune shapes as well for a more regal look!

And here is a literal crown bed...the crown is an actual crown!

Happy designing!

Rub-A-Dub-Dub: The Skinny On Bath Tubs

I am working on several bathrooms for clients right now and one of the biggest elements in a bathroom is often the bath tub. A glance into the world of tubs reveals a plethora of configurations, sizes, and choices which can be a bit overwhelming. I'll try to break down some of the more common issues and terminology...

Undermount Tub

This term refers to a tub whose edge or lip is under the tub deck or surrounding surface on the top. As you can see in the images below, the deck is over the tub itself. This look is clean and streamlined and allows for more of the deck material to be seen, whether you choose marble, granite, or quartz.

Drop-in Tubs

On the other hand, drop-in tubs are literally dropped into the tub deck and the edge sits on top of the surround. The first image below is of a luxurious drop-in jetted whirlpool tub by Jason International I designed for a client (previously here). Depending on how large the tub surround is, much of the deck material (a gorgeous grey and white Letoon marble from Turkey in this case) is still seen. We designed this one with enough room to set down a book or glass of wine.

Alcove Tub

Also referred to as a skirted tub, or what is called an "apron," this tub fits into an alcove, as seen below. Walls at the head and foot of the tub create an alcove. This is commonly seen in smaller homes and apartments since it saves on space. The face, side, or apron can come in different shapes and configurations as well. Another thing to look for when looking at an alcove tub is which way the drain is oriented. You want to make sure you are replacing your old tub with a model that will fit with your current drain position since moving plumbing lines can be a very expensive prospect. The first photo below is a right hand facing drain and the next is, as you can guess, a left hand facing drain.

Free Standing Tub

A free standing tub is quite classical, even in a modern design. Such tubs now have beautiful swooping sides, dramatic sizes, or contemporary, design-forward sensibilities like the half-egg shape below. But unlike alcove tubs, free standing tubs generally require space to look good. They don't want to be crowded.

Clawfoot Tub

What could be more traditional than a clawfoot bath tub?

This design is based on the clawfoot leg on furniture, a version of which can be found as far back as the Renaissance. But the style really became popular when Thomas Chippendale, a British cabinet maker and furniture designer created the claw and ball foot. As its name implies, the terminus of such a leg features an animal claw over a ball. And you can see that very design in the claw foot tub below. But a clawfoot leg or a tub does not have to have a ball, as seen in the second image.

Jetted Whirlpool Tub

Some people call a jetted tub a "spa" and there are a few different types. The most common one is the jetted whirlpool type which recirculates water and forces it out in jets. Jacuzzi is a company that pioneered the creation and manufacture of these tubs and is a brand name, not a generic overall name. However it has become synonymous with any type of jetted water tub; in this way it is much like people using a Q-tip (a cotton swab) or a Kleenex (a tissue): companies love it when their name becomes the name of the product!

Just like regular soaking tubs, whirlpool tubs are made in a huge variety of shapes and sizes. The jets themselves come in many different configurations as well with some featuring more jets at the bather's back, or jets all around including the leg and foot area!

Here is a drop-in jetted whirlpool tub by Jason International that I did for a client (previously here)...next to a relaxing fireplace!

As you can see below, water shoots out of a set of jets but because of the nature of the mechanism, there are a few challenges that come with this type of tub. It requires electricity to power the motor needed to pump the water. An access panel to service the motor must be built into either the foot of the tub, the side (or apron), or outside on an exterior wall, as is the case with the tub I designed above.

Another consideration is the cleaning and upkeep. You can see in the photo below how water exits the jets. It feels wonderful to relax in such a tub but there should be regular maintenance as water tends to settle and remain in the pipes after a bath. Mildew and mold can collect, as with any tub or shower in a bathroom, and your whirlpool tub should be cleaned, disinfected, and flushed. How often? Well, that depends on  how much you use it. If you are using the jets nearly every day, clean the system at least once a month.

Jetted Air Tub

Much like a whirplool, this kind of tub uses jets but instead of water, it forces out air. Some of the jets are larger, like a whirlpool, but some tubs have very small holes all along the bottom or sides so air streams out, making the water feel almost carbonated! The fizziness and bubbliness is delightful.

This underwater view shows a lot more air, as opposed to the photo of a water jet in the last section.

And finally, a word about size: tubs come in differing widths, lengths, and depths. The best way to understand tub size is to go to a showroom or warehouse and "test drive" as many sizes as you can. Tubs come as small as 20" wide (which, in my opinion, is way too tight) up to as much 50" or more! A comfortable width is generally around 36" or 38" for a single person. Now, you will want to pay attention to whether these numbers are total dimensions or dimensions of the basin, or in other words, from outside to outside (exterior) vs. the opening in which you will be sitting (interior).

The length will depend upon how much space you have and how tall the bathers are (another vbery important consideration).

And some other dimensions that can be confusing are the depth not only of the tub from floor to top (a 24" high tub is about normal but I wouldn't want to go higher or much lower) but of the bathing depth which is measured from the bottom of the inside of the tub to the top of the overflow, the maximum depth of water. I had a client with an existing tub whose bathing depth was only 9"--that was not a bath, that was just sitting in a puddle! If you want a good soak, try to get the interior depth as deep as you can!

I hope this helped to solve some of the more perplexing questions about bath tubs. If you need more help with a tub or a bathroom remodel, feel free to contact me!

Happy designing!

Credenza? Buffet? Sideboard?

Yes, all of these...and even a "commode!"

These names apply to a piece of long, low furniture, generally with short legs, or perhaps none, with a series of drawers or doors for storage. Such pieces originated long ago. A sideboard has its roots in old England as a surface to lay food upon while serving and over time, the addition of extra storage below caught on. In Sweden a buffet came in handy as a spot for the iconic Swedish smorgasbord...and the idea soon spread to France and throughout Europe. Such pieces may even be called "commodes" in the French style which originated in the early 1700s. Commodes can have long or short legs, but the general idea is the same: a long, low piece of furniture with storage below.

Nowadays, we use sideboard, credenza, buffet, or even commode interchangeably, although I am sure I just made some antique furniture expert's head explode by throwing commodes into the sauce. Yes, antique French commodes are quite ornate with gilt-bronze mounts and exquisite ormolu but for our intents and purposes, a commode is used like a sideboard or buffet but can sometimes resemble a chest of drawers.

Here is a round-up of some modern buffets, credenzas, and sideboards. As you can see, they can certainly be used in dining rooms (I am a great believer in sideboards and buffets for dining rooms as they lend a finished sense to the room), but they can also have great use and effectiveness in an entry, providing not only beauty and style, but usefulness as a landing place for keys, mail, etc.

This first dynamic and very modern piece below designed by Elizabeth Garouste for Ralph Pucci is technically listed as a commode on the Pucci website. You can see how the bank of drawers resembles a chest of drawers. But this piece of red lacquer and polished bronze could go anywhere, in a living room, entryway, or dining room.

The Heritage sideboard by Boca do Lobo is made to look like cut up sections of different pieces of furniture covered with classic blue and white Portuguese ceramic tiles.

Jean de Merry made the Diana credenza out of reverse painted glass depicting a scene of the Greek goddess Diana on a hunt. In the second photo, you can get a better idea of the scale of the piece and how lovely it would look at and entryway or in a living room.

The Gazelle sideboard, handcrafted at the Gregg Lipton studio in Cumberland, Maine, features a modern take on a cabriole leg in stunning mahogany and birdseye maple.

The primary color blocks in the paintings of Piet Mondrian are the inspiration for this playful and fun sideboard by Sarl Studio KM.

This spectacular piece is The Monocle sideboard by Delightfull. And it is indeed delightful here with a black and white photo of a James Bond-type, some graphic modern art, and a waiting martini. Behind the doors are drawers to hold napkins and swizzle sticks...

The compass rose and latitude lines of nautical charts of yesteryear make up the breathtaking Sagres sideboard by Malabar, executed in solid poplar wood and supported by gold and bronze plated steel. the second photo shows that it hides ample storage!

And finally, this exquisite piece in which each of the exterior faces is entirely sculpted out of a solid piece of wood by hand, then covered with metal sheeting, is the Floral credenza by Stephanie Odegard. Available in white bronze,copper, brass or silver.

Consider a commode, buffet, sideboard, or credenza in your entry, living room, or dining room.

Happy designing!