It's Fireplace Weather: Terms To Know

Now that summer is officially over and we have begun our journey into autumn, it is feeling a little like fireplace weather. And over my decade of working in interior design, I have noticed that often people might speak about their fireplaces but don't know what to call parts or areas, while others use different terms for the same object. So in an effort to offer some clarity, let's walk through some of the major parts of a fireplace.

The central and most important part of a fireplace is of course where the fire itself is located, the firebox. This is sometimes referred to simply as "the box." Fireplace boxes can be lined with brick, fireclay, metal, pretty much anything that is fireproof (obviously).

The next area of importance is the hearth. This is the area in front of the firebox and it too needs to be fireproof if you have a live fire. This ensures that popping embers from the firebox will not start a fire. For this reason, a hearth needs to be at least 18" deep. If you have a gas insert instead of actual burning logs, the hearth should still be made of a heat-resistant material since many of today's gas inserts give off a tremendous amount of heat that can still cause damage.

A hearth can be flush with the floor or as close to that as possible. Or a hearth can be raised. In the case of a raised hearth, the structure can turn into a bench!

Now we come to the fun parts of the fireplace: the fascia of the mantel can be clad in a myriad of stone or tile choices (again, any non-combustible material that covers at least 6" from the edge of the firebox), and of course the mantel shelf (people often refer to this simply as "the mantel") can be wood or metal. The shelf is a perfect spot for collectibles, art, and holiday decorations. See my previous post about Mantel Inspiration for a brief overview of what can be done to incorporate rich design into your fireplace.

If you don't have a mantel, you can add a floating shelf which offers a very sleek take on a standard fireplace.

On very traditional fireplaces, the mantel sides can also feature carved or fluted panels which are referred to as legs or pilasters. And the last large piece of a fireplace is what is called the breast. This is the structure that covers the chimney and flue. This is another perfect area for some extra embellishmnet. Traditional fireplaces might feature a material on the fireplace breast that is the wall material in the rest of the room. But modern fireplaces can be clad in tile or stone, often all the way to the ceiling.

But wait, there are some areas of your fireplace that you can't see! The chimney is the structure that rises from the fireplace itself and the flue is the duct, pipe, or opening that allows smoke to rise up and out of your home. If you have a gas insert, the flue can be directed either up or off the side to vent outward but if you have a log-burning fireplace, smoke only rises, so it is imperative that your flue go straight up. You most likely also have a flue cover that allows air to flow up when opened. Because burning natural materials coats the inside of your flue with creosote (a tarry by-product of burning wood), it's good to have a professional chimney sweep clean your fireplace at the beginning of every cold season.

Happy designing!

Tile Terms: What You Need To Know

Interior design is chock full of related specialties and sub-sets of specialties with their own world of nomenclature. Tilers are no exception and if you have ever talked to a tiler, you may have heard some unfamiliar words or terms.

When you pick a tile to go on a shower wall or kitchen floor for instance, the work is not over!

Before any tile ever goes down, a tiler must think about the area and what will be done there. Every application needs some sort of surface or substrate under the tile. This is called a sub-floor and in fact is not only used for tile but for any floor at all. Hard wood, laminate, and carpet all need to go on top of a sub-floor which is often made of plywood.

But special attention needs to be paid to wet areas like showers and tubs which need to protect against moisture and possible mold from the water that will be on and around the tile. This is usually in the form of what is often called backer board, a material that looks like sheet rock but is actually made from cement. Brand names include HardieBacker and DuRock by USG.

In showers, the next layer is often a waterproof membrane to further protect against moisture. A bed of mortar needs to be laid before any tile can be applied. This mortar is also called thinset and goes on top of either the waterproof membrane or onto the cement board. This is the glue that holds the tiles in place.

Now tile is ready to go down and another consideration at this point is how far apart the tiles can or should be. The space between the tiles is what will be the grout line. I personally like the smallest possible grout line--the point after all is the tile, not the grout!--so that means spacing the tiles as close as they can get. Tile spacers come in different shapes and sizes which allow for different grout lines. The most common tile spacer looks like a little plastic plus sign.

Here is a tile installation in a shower, showing spacers at the corners of the tiles, keeping them equidistant.

Part of the tile selection and plan should have been whether or not the edges of your tiled surfaces will have a rounded edge tile, called a bull nose tile, or if it will have some other kind of decorative edge detail.

Many tiles come in an edge style as well. This allows a nice finished look instead of seeing the ragged edge of a tile. You can see below how the rounded detail accomplishes this.

Bullnose tiles are quite traditional so if you are looking for something sleeker and more contemporary, you can use a Schluter edge which is a long strip of plastic or metal that sits partially beneath the tiles along the edge. The detail that is seen can be a color, or it can be a finish such as brushed nickel, oil-rubbed bronze, or even copper.

Here is an image of a Schluter strip being installed in a bathroom I recently completed for a client. This chrome edge caps off not only the filed tile in the shower but the decorative band that runs across the walls. It is a very convenient and clean way to finish off different kinds of materials at once.

We used this chrome edge not only in the shower but as a way to cap the same mosaic decorative band we used as a back splash at the sink. The entire project can be seen here in a previous post.

Once all the tile is set and the mortar has dried (it's usually best to wait at least 24 hours), the grouting process begins. This involves troweling on a paste that gets in between the tiles, sealing off the thinset and any access to the sub-materials that could cause mold or mildew. Grout comes in many different colors and can be coordinated with the tile so it does not stand out, or it can be used as a contrast. Choose carefully as this can be a make-or-break element.

Grout color can blend with the tile colors, giving a soothing appearance, like this luxury bathroom I designed for a client (previously here)...

...or it can make a tile choice stand out like this dramatic black grout on a traditional white subway tile.

I hope this helped to demystify tile, tiling, and tiling terms.

Happy designing!

When It's NOT A Four Poster Bed

You don't need to have four posters to have a beautiful fabric treatment over your bed. You can get a canopy look without having the posts to hold it up simply by installing rods and draping fabric. This awning-style canopy is easy to achieve by using metal drapery rods, wooden dowels, or even tree branches!

And then there is a style of bed cover based upon the idea of a four poster bed, particularly the large flat panel known as a "tester" (TEE-stir) suspended from the four posts. A half-tester bed is one that only has a short panel above the head of the bed from which falls fabric panels, as seen below. While the look originated centuries ago in Europe, the style today looks elegant and luxurious. The tester can have a valance of some kind, in a shape, even upholstered in fabric.

But when the tester is small or non-existent, and fabric falls from a central point, this is known as a crown. The examples below are rectangular but crowns come in demilune shapes as well for a more regal look!

And here is a literal crown bed...the crown is an actual crown!

Happy designing!

Rub-A-Dub-Dub: The Skinny On Bath Tubs

I am working on several bathrooms for clients right now and one of the biggest elements in a bathroom is often the bath tub. A glance into the world of tubs reveals a plethora of configurations, sizes, and choices which can be a bit overwhelming. I'll try to break down some of the more common issues and terminology...

Undermount Tub

This term refers to a tub whose edge or lip is under the tub deck or surrounding surface on the top. As you can see in the images below, the deck is over the tub itself. This look is clean and streamlined and allows for more of the deck material to be seen, whether you choose marble, granite, or quartz.

Drop-in Tubs

On the other hand, drop-in tubs are literally dropped into the tub deck and the edge sits on top of the surround. The first image below is of a luxurious drop-in jetted whirlpool tub by Jason International I designed for a client (previously here). Depending on how large the tub surround is, much of the deck material (a gorgeous grey and white Letoon marble from Turkey in this case) is still seen. We designed this one with enough room to set down a book or glass of wine.

Alcove Tub

Also referred to as a skirted tub, or what is called an "apron," this tub fits into an alcove, as seen below. Walls at the head and foot of the tub create an alcove. This is commonly seen in smaller homes and apartments since it saves on space. The face, side, or apron can come in different shapes and configurations as well. Another thing to look for when looking at an alcove tub is which way the drain is oriented. You want to make sure you are replacing your old tub with a model that will fit with your current drain position since moving plumbing lines can be a very expensive prospect. The first photo below is a right hand facing drain and the next is, as you can guess, a left hand facing drain.

Free Standing Tub

A free standing tub is quite classical, even in a modern design. Such tubs now have beautiful swooping sides, dramatic sizes, or contemporary, design-forward sensibilities like the half-egg shape below. But unlike alcove tubs, free standing tubs generally require space to look good. They don't want to be crowded.

Clawfoot Tub

What could be more traditional than a clawfoot bath tub?

This design is based on the clawfoot leg on furniture, a version of which can be found as far back as the Renaissance. But the style really became popular when Thomas Chippendale, a British cabinet maker and furniture designer created the claw and ball foot. As its name implies, the terminus of such a leg features an animal claw over a ball. And you can see that very design in the claw foot tub below. But a clawfoot leg or a tub does not have to have a ball, as seen in the second image.

Jetted Whirlpool Tub

Some people call a jetted tub a "spa" and there are a few different types. The most common one is the jetted whirlpool type which recirculates water and forces it out in jets. Jacuzzi is a company that pioneered the creation and manufacture of these tubs and is a brand name, not a generic overall name. However it has become synonymous with any type of jetted water tub; in this way it is much like people using a Q-tip (a cotton swab) or a Kleenex (a tissue): companies love it when their name becomes the name of the product!

Just like regular soaking tubs, whirlpool tubs are made in a huge variety of shapes and sizes. The jets themselves come in many different configurations as well with some featuring more jets at the bather's back, or jets all around including the leg and foot area!

Here is a drop-in jetted whirlpool tub by Jason International that I did for a client (previously here)...next to a relaxing fireplace!

As you can see below, water shoots out of a set of jets but because of the nature of the mechanism, there are a few challenges that come with this type of tub. It requires electricity to power the motor needed to pump the water. An access panel to service the motor must be built into either the foot of the tub, the side (or apron), or outside on an exterior wall, as is the case with the tub I designed above.

Another consideration is the cleaning and upkeep. You can see in the photo below how water exits the jets. It feels wonderful to relax in such a tub but there should be regular maintenance as water tends to settle and remain in the pipes after a bath. Mildew and mold can collect, as with any tub or shower in a bathroom, and your whirlpool tub should be cleaned, disinfected, and flushed. How often? Well, that depends on  how much you use it. If you are using the jets nearly every day, clean the system at least once a month.

Jetted Air Tub

Much like a whirplool, this kind of tub uses jets but instead of water, it forces out air. Some of the jets are larger, like a whirlpool, but some tubs have very small holes all along the bottom or sides so air streams out, making the water feel almost carbonated! The fizziness and bubbliness is delightful.

This underwater view shows a lot more air, as opposed to the photo of a water jet in the last section.

And finally, a word about size: tubs come in differing widths, lengths, and depths. The best way to understand tub size is to go to a showroom or warehouse and "test drive" as many sizes as you can. Tubs come as small as 20" wide (which, in my opinion, is way too tight) up to as much 50" or more! A comfortable width is generally around 36" or 38" for a single person. Now, you will want to pay attention to whether these numbers are total dimensions or dimensions of the basin, or in other words, from outside to outside (exterior) vs. the opening in which you will be sitting (interior).

The length will depend upon how much space you have and how tall the bathers are (another vbery important consideration).

And some other dimensions that can be confusing are the depth not only of the tub from floor to top (a 24" high tub is about normal but I wouldn't want to go higher or much lower) but of the bathing depth which is measured from the bottom of the inside of the tub to the top of the overflow, the maximum depth of water. I had a client with an existing tub whose bathing depth was only 9"--that was not a bath, that was just sitting in a puddle! If you want a good soak, try to get the interior depth as deep as you can!

I hope this helped to solve some of the more perplexing questions about bath tubs. If you need more help with a tub or a bathroom remodel, feel free to contact me!

Happy designing!

Shutters, Blinds, Shades: What's The Difference?

The world of window coverings is enormous. I know, it may seem silly to the lay person ("Oh come on Jeff, a world of window coverings?") but there are almost as many different ways to dress a window as there are windows. And consequently there are many different names and terms that can get confused or used interchangeably.

Let's take a look at three common window coverings that are often lumped together--shutters, blinds, and shades--and discover what they are, and how they differ.

SHUTTERS
Shutters are generally louvered coverings for a window or door. They can be fixed or able to open up, away from the window or door.

Often one will hear shutters called Plantation shutters since they were used extensively in Colonial islands like Jamaica. They are quite practical in tropical areas since they provide shade from glaring sun but the louvers can be tilted, usually on a central rod, to allow air to circulate. in interiors, they can signal an exotic, lush design scheme.

But the problem with shutters--and a complaint I hear most from clients who may have inherited shutters as window coverings from a previous owner--is that they can be overwhelming and make a space feel gloomy. When used on a large expanse, they tend to feel heavy, clunky...

In this application, it is simply a missed opportunity to layer window coverings which can introduce more color and texture into the space (we will see examples of this later in the post). And unlike most shades, blinds, or even draperies, shutters are fixed to the entire window. They cannot be stacked back or moved off the glass to allow more light or view. Whether they are built to sit inside the casing, or must be boxed and mounted outside the casing, they are bulky and cumbersome to open. Honestly, I have only ever had clients remove shutters, not install them, not only for the aforementioned reasons, but because the look is now quite dated.

BLINDS
Blinds offer a bit more flexibility. A blind is a series of slats made of metal, wood, or a composite material. They can be pulled up tight against the top of the casing, allowing for a fairly unimpeded view and like shutters, the slats can also be tilted to control light. It might just be me, but blinds make me flash on classic noir films from the 1930s and 40s.

And blinds can still have a cool, urban feeling. They play well in city lofts...

...but wood or composite versions can look nice anywhere.

An optional decorative feature on blinds is the addition of fabric "tape" which can come in any color or pattern.

The look can have a rich, Old World feel.

SHADES
A shade is generally a solid material that raises and lowers in front of the window. The typical shade most of us grew up with is the spring roller shade, which is a tube at the top of the casing on which the material rolls when open. Because of this, it is preferable for the roller mechanism to be hidden behind a fascia of some kind.

Now shades come with a top down/bottom up feature that allows for more precise control, not only for light but for privacy as well. As you can see in the image below, this privacy control is very useful in a bathroom!

Bamboo shades are perfect for introducing additional color and texture, and a warm, organic feel into a space. They are marvelous when layered under fabric drapes. This layering gives rooms a more finished look since the fabric drapery offers a softening element for the space.

And finally, a very popular variety of shade is the soft Roman shade. This is a flat piece of fabric or material (bamboo can be used as well) which pleats up into itself when raised. The advantage to this shade is that it can act like a drapery (coming in ANY choice of fabric), but have the functionality of a blind. For this reason, they are useful in kitchens where one does not want loose drapery fabric near either a water or a heat source. They can be tucked up out of the way, or lay flat against the glass when down.

And there we have three popular window covering options. As I said at the top of this post, the world of window coverings is wide and vast. Stay tuned for upcoming posts about draperies and the many ways they can be created.

Happy designing!