In The World Of Fabric, What Is Brocade?

I've posted about many different types of fabrics in the past from exotic creations like ikat, here, or African kuba/kente/mudcloth here.

Those are visually easy to identify because they are so unique, but some fabrics get confused with one another and terms sometimes end up being interchangeable even when the fabrics are distinct. Jacquard, previously here, is an umbrella term for many types of fabrics. The name refers to Joseph Marie Jacquard, the inventor of an 1801 attachment for looms using punch cards that individually control each of the warp yarns (the up/down, or north/south yarns) in a piece of cloth.

Below you can see a Jacquard attachment on a loom.

Here is a close-up of the punch cards, made of thin planks of wood. If there was a hole, a hook would raise. If not, the hook wold go down. In this way, a pattern would emerge in the fabric.

Differing fabrics and effects can be achieved by varying the color, material, and number of warp as well as weft threads. One of the fabrics a Jacquard loom can create is damask which features some kind of figure, usually symmetrical, like an Arabesque or a floral. The warp fibers are shiny while the weft fibers (those that left/right or east/west as it were) are matte. This gives damask a quality that makes it ideal for tone-on-tone color palettes. Another characteristic of damask fabric is that is is reversible...there is no "rough" woven side. For this reason, the use of damask is very common for tableware like napkins and tablecloths.

But something even more complex can be created when adding extra weft fibers only in a certain area to make a raised or embossed design. This type of jacquard fabrics is called brocade. Originally crafted from silk, brocade has origins in ancient India around 1750 B.C.E. It made its way through China around 450 B.C.E., and through the European Renaissance of the 15th century. But the invention of the Jacquard loom allowed brocade to be made faster, and the fabric was once again the rage throughout the 1800s.

What makes brocade so special is that the extra weft threads are often of metallic gold or silver, making the raised design shimmer. This opulent fabric can be used for very special but limited applications for upholstery, pillows, even wall covering. Using a brocade speaks to its history and adds a sense of luxury and value.

Chinese Brocade from Lee Jofa/Kravet in Sand and Red

Chinese Brocade from Lee Jofa/Kravet in Sand installed on library chairs

Happy designing!

Famous Homes: Filoli

For this installation of Famous Homes, we need look no further than our own backyard. Here in Northern California, we have a beautiful country house located in Woodside, nestled between the San Jose and San Francisco metro areas.

Known as the Bourn-Roth Estate, the home sits among 16 acres of formal gardens surrounded by a 654-acre estate. Designed for William Bowers Bourn II, the owner of one of California's wealthiest gold mines and president of the Spring Valley Water Company, which provided water to San Francisco, and his wife, Agnes Moody Bourn, this impressive residence was crafted by San Francisco architect Willis Polk. Spanning 54,256 square feet, the house features 56 rooms, including a ballroom, a reception room, a dining room, cozy family spaces, and servants' quarters. The structure was built between 1915 and 1917 and the estate's name is an acronym created by combining the first two letters of the key phrases from William Bourn's credo: "Fight for a just cause; Love your fellow man; Live a good life."

From 1917 to 1936, the Bourns used Filoli as a country house when they wanted to getaway from their main residence in San Francisco. After William and Agnes Bourn's deaths in 1936, the house was sold. Thankfully the next owners also came from wealth: Mr. William P. Roth and Mrs. Lurline Matson Roth (heiress to the Matson Navigation Company) were able to properly care for the property. In 1975, Mrs. Roth donated Filoli in its entirety to the National Trust for Historic Preservation, and the estate is now both a California Historical Landmark and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The estate operates as Filoli Center, and you can visit the house and gardens throughout the year.

Filoli Reception Room circa 1936

Filoli Reception Room now

Filoli Library

Filoli Dining Room

Filoli Kitchen

Filoli Ballroom circa 1927

Filoli Ballroom now

Filoli has appeared on both the big and small screens: it was an exterior location for scenes in Warren Beatty's 1978 film "Heaven Can Wait," it served as the Stanhope residence in the 1997 film "George of the Jungle" starring Brendan Fraser and, despite the fact that the show was set in Denver, Colorado, it was the home of the Carrington family on the 1980s ABC television series "Dynasty."

Just last year, in 2023, it hosted President Joe Biden and Chinese President Xi Jinping for informal talks during the 2023 APEC summit in San Francisco.

Meeting in the Ballroom
Photo: Brendan Smialowski AFP|Getty

During the winter holidays, Filoli is the location of a spectacular outdoor light display while the interiors are dressed for Christmas.

History of Furniture: Sheraton

For this installment of the History of Furniture, I propose a look at a style known as Sheraton, based on the work of Thomas Sheraton, an English writer and furniture designer who lived from 1751 to 1806. He was trained as a cabinet (furniture) maker but is best known as the author of many volumes illustrating what came to be known as the Sheraton Style, starting in 1791 with The Cabinet Maker's and Upholsterer's Drawing Book.

Scholarly sources put the start of the Sheraton Style at either 1780 or 1790 (Wiki splits the difference and cites 1785) but most agree that it saw its end in 1820. As I have said before in this series, if you want to discover why a certain style or movement looks the way it does, you simply need to look at the styles immediately preceding it and you will see that, generally, the style is a reaction to and against its antecedent. And what came before this period was Baroque and Rococo, a highly detailed, heavily decorated, and dizzyingly ornamented style championed by Louis XV. When Louis XVI took over, tastes turned from such sinuous ornamentation--or rather I should say tastes returned to something sleeker, cleaner: Classicism.

This Neo-Classicism and the reign of Louis XVI ran from 1774 - 1793. As you can see by all the dates involved, Sheraton was simply following the fashion of the day. So Sheraton (as well as some other styles around and overlapping Sheraton, like Directoire--previously here--and Empire--previously here--in France, and the Federal style in the United States which saw a tremendous amount fo Sheraton-style furniture) embraced the silhouettes and motifs of ancient Greece and Rome, all based on symmetry and the straight line. Chair and sofa legs are straight, not the old cabriole shape of the past. They were round, sometimes slightly tapered, often with fluting like a Greek column--although it is not uncommon to see splayed back legs. The overall sense of Sheraton furniture is one of elegant, well-proportioned geometric shapes commonly made out of satinwood but mahogany and beech were also popular. Seat backs for chairs and settees are usually rectilinear. Pieces are decorated with small, low-relief carvings consisting of swags, lyres, ribbons, festoons, rams' heads, urns and flowers in the neoclassical tradition or inlaid with parquetry and veneers of exotic woods.

Happy designing!

The Snaps Collection from Hubbardton Forge

I am always searching for unique lighting options for clients, and Hubbardton Forge has just released a new collection that fits the bill. Called Snaps, the configurable design features differing lengths of leather strapping (in brown, black, or white!) punctuated by round LED lights housed in alabaster, all held together with riveted snaps! As you can see below, it looks great in many settings and provides a great sculptural focal point.

I am excited to use the Snaps Collection in a project! Contact me if you want to include Snaps in your remodeled space.

Happy designing!

New Patterns From Porter Teleo

One of my favorite wallcovering companies, Porter Teleo (previously here) who make exquisite handmade and hand painted products, has several exciting new patterns to choose from!

Inspired by a walk in the South of France, AMITIÉ is a large scale botanical print that features branches adorned with abstracted blossoms of alpine rose, orange blossoms, and silver wattle. It comes in three colorways: Argent, Bleu, and Copper.

The sinuous forms of ECHO reference the wire sculptures of Ruth Asawa. Available in four colorways: Blush, Copper, Polished Bronze, and Zinc.

Representing human touch, botanical life, dreams, and the essence of artistic composition, the symbols of SIGNATURE reference the origins of Porter Teleo and the brand's core values of humanity, nature, and aesthetic individualism. In Cadmium, Creme, Noir, and Verdatre.

And finally, IN THE WILD is a striking, complicated pattern reminiscent of dynamic flowers, leaf-like abstractions, oversized shells, and curiously playful shapes which comes in Brown Umber, Cadmium Red, Graphite, and Ultramarine.

If you're interested in discovering these or any of the other beautiful Porter Teleo patterns, reach out to me so we can craft a magical, artistic environment together.

Happy designing!